"Calculation of Fabric Utilization % in Cutting room"

Calculation of Fabric Utilization % in Cutting room

Apparel Manufacturing n Marketing

Fabric utilization:-

It means how much fabric is being utilized in cutting for garment patterns out of total fabric laid for cutting. Generally, fabric constitutes 60% to 70% of the total garment cost. So, through effective fabric utilization factory can save lot of money from fabric.

Calculation of Fabric utilization:-
Step 1: Measure the lay length (A) that should be used in bulk cutting. And suppose fabric width is 1.2 meters. Collect the information of fabric GSM (Grams per square meter).

Step 2: Calculate weight of that lay (B).
Weight = Fabric width X Lay Length X GSM X No. of plies (You can also calculate taking multiple lays) or 1.2A*GSM * no. of plies

Step 3: Cut the patterns and collect all waste fabric and weigh waste. (C)

Step 4: Weight of the fabric of cut panels D = (B-C)

Step 5: Fabric utilization% = Weight of cut panels (D)/Total weight of the lay (B)*100%

For the accuracy you can do this exercise with multiple lays and take average of them.

Example: For better understanding following will be very helpful-
Step 1: Assume that
a) Measured lay length = 3 meters
b) Fabric GSM = 150
c) No. of Plies = 5 and
d) Fabric width = 1.2 meters,

Step 2: Calculated weight of the lay = 3*150*5*1.2 =2700 grams

Step 3: Weight of the collected waste after cutting = 300 grams

Step 4: Weight of the cut panels = (2700 – 300) = 2400 grams

Step 5: Fabric utilization percentage = (2400/2700*100) = 88.9%.

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"Cutting Room - Terminology"

Cutting Room - Terminology

Apparel Manufacturing n Marketing

 

Common Terminology	Definition
Band knife	An endless blade vertical knife, around which the work is moved over the large cutting table.
Bias Cut	‘Cut on the Bias’ – cut at an angle to both the warp and the weft of the cloth, at 45 degree.
Baker’s Trolley	A wheeled rack used to transport sections of the lay from the cutting table to the band knife and from the band knife to the sorting operations.
Block Cutting or Blocking out	Cutting roughly around a part which is subsequently cut very precisely, by various means. Also for splitting the lay, to assist handling to the band knife.
Bowing	A fault in woven cloth in which the weft is not straight across the piece but has curve.
Clicker Press	Used for parts of intricate nature and repetitive, also for parts requiring a high degree of accuracy.
Cross	‘Cut on the crosses – Cut at right angles to the grain of the cloth (On bias).
Damage	A fabric fault. It may be generated during handling fabric inside factory or faulty fabric sent the fabric supplier.
Die cutting	Used where accuracy is important and there is enough repetition.
End loss	The cloth at the end of the lay that is not covered by the marker.
Face one way spreading	The face side of each ply faces the same way (up or down).
Face to face spreading	Method of spreading in which the cloth is alternately facing up or down, as a result of continuous to and fro movement of the roll over the lay.
Face to face one way spreading	Used for directional fabric where the pile (direction) is required to lie in the same direction on all the plies.
Layout (pattern layout)	The geometrical layout of the pattern pieces in a garment, which is cut around to produce the parts of the garment.
Marker	a). A man who prepares the pattern layout and/or who marks the layout onto the lay or onto a paper or a cloth. b). A piece of paper, cloth etc. representing the layout.
Notch	A small cut into the part, which aids the location during assembly by indicating to the operator some requirement for matching with other notches or positions in the garment.
On the fold	Method of finishing the cloth so that it is folded to half its width
Shading	Means colour in cloth. It is commonly used to imply that a particular bit/roll of cloth is different in shade from another bit.
Shade Numbering	Process of numbering parts to ensure they are of same shade.
Slubs	A local thick place in the yarn in a cloth usually caused by error but in some cloths it is introduced purposely.

  

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"Cutting Room - (working process)"

Cutting Room - (working process)

Apparel Manufacturing n Marketing

Garment production starts with the cutting process. In this process, fabric is being cut into components (shapes or patterns of different garment parts, i.e. front, back, sleeve, collar shapes etc.). In mass production multiple layers of fabrics are laid on a table and large number of garments is being cut at a time. The laid fabric stack is called as lay. The cutting process includes number of sub-processes and flow of the processes is as following. Each process is briefly explained in the following:-

 Cutting Room - Process Flow Chart

1. Pattern / Marker:- According to the design and fit, patterns of different garment parts are made on the pattern paper and cut into pattern pieces. For manual marker these pattern pieces are used for marker making. On the other hand in CAD system patterns are made in computer. Later using a plotter markers are made on sheet. In the second case cutting department receive ready marker.

2. Cut ratio receiving:- Prior to cutting, cutting department get a job sheet from planning department or merchandiser or production manager that includes total quantity of garment pieces to be cut, sizes ratio of the garments and colour-wise size break up. According to the size and colour ratio cutting team prepare one marker or multiple markers. Marker length and number of lay to be cut are planned in this stage.

3. Fabric receiving:- Fabric requirement for an order is calculated according to the average consumption of the fabric from the marker. In case of multiple colour order, colour wise requirement is made. Fabric department issue fabric to cutting against the fabric requirement (generally requisition slip is used).


4. Fabric relaxation:- This process is optional. Specially used for knits fabric. During rolling of fabric it get stretched. So it is essential to bring the fabric on stable form otherwise garment would shrink after making. To relax the fabric roll or than is opened and spread and kept for about 24 hours.

5. Spreading (Fabric Layering):- In this stage fabric sheet is layered one above another maintaining per-defined maker length and correct ply tension. Fabric is layered up to a certain height to avoid cutting quality problem. Spreading is done by manual layering or automatic layering machine can be used. During layering of the fabric, fabric edge is aligned at one side.

6. Marker Making:- After layering of a lay, per made paper patterns (or ready markers made by plotter) are placed on the top layer of the lay. In manual marker making, marking is done around each pattern shape using marking chalk. This process is called as marker making. In a marker all garment components are placed.

7. Cutting:- Lay is cut following the marked lines on the top of the lay. Cutting is done using straight knife or other cutting means. In cutting process garment component are separated. On the basis of pattern shape different cutting method/ machine are selected.

8. Numbering:- Separated garment components are numbered to ensure that in stitching all components from same layer are stitched together. It is important to avoid shade variation in a garment. Between the cutting and sewing processes cut components may be passed through other processes like printing and embroidery. There is maximum chance of mixing of the components. If there is layer number in each component then at the time of stitching only correct components will be stitched together.

9. Sorting:- According to production system (Make through, progressive bundle or one piece flow system) cut components are sorted. In sorting all component of a garment placed together. Size wise sorting and in case multiple colours are cut in a single lay, colour wise sorting will be required.

10. Bundling:- As per the production line requirement a certain number of pieces with all component are tied together. This process is known as bundling. Each bundle is marked with bundle number, style name, size number and quantity of pieces in that bundle. At this stage cutting are ready to send to production line for stitching.