"Progressive Bundle System and Unit Production System (UPS)"

Progressive Bundle System and Unit Production System (UPS)

Apparel Manufacturing n Marketing In the industrial sewing plants various types of sewing systems are installed. A plant owner chooses these systems depending on the production volume, product categories, and cost effectiveness of high tech machineries. Among those “Progressive Bundle System” (PBS) is mostly installed sewing system till date. In this production system bundles of cut pieces (bundle of 5, 10, 20 or 30 pieces) are moved manually to feed the line. Then inside the line an operator himself drag the bundle from side table and transfer the bundle to the next operator

after completion of the work. With the advancement of the technology mechanical material transportation systems are brought in the sewing plant. An overhead material transport system, known as UPS (Unit Production System) transports cut pieces hanged in hangers (one hanger for one piece) by automated mechanical transport system. It reduces manual transportation and it has many other benefits against the progressive bundle system. This article is not to recommend one to replace this well placed progressive bundle system. When to install a new technology is depend on various factors. A comparison between these two production systems has been drawn in the following table on the basis of production KPIs (Key Performance Indicators) to show how an UPS system (overhead hanging and sensor controlled system) is most effective over PBS.

Parameters	Progressive Bundle System (PBS)	Unit Production System (UPS)
Transportation	-Manual transportation, many times helper are hired for this bundle transportation job. -Operators stop their work to fetch bundles. -Less effective in terms of production management. Resulted long response time.	-In this system an automated mechanical system carries pieces to each work stations. -Easier pick up and dispose at each work station. Resulted quick response time
Through put time	-Compare to UPS, through put time longer in PBS. How much long will depend on the bundle size and no. of bundles kept in between two operators.	-Through put time in UPS is less compare to PBS. But it is not the minimum time as in this system there is WIP in between two operators.
Direct Labour content	- Direct labour content is high because usually operator does tying and untying of bundles, positioning components, pulling the bundle ticket and handling of work pieces.	-Direct labour content is less than PBS because an operator only sews the garment part rather than other tasks. In this system garment parts are held by the over head hanger, so less handling of garment components.
WIP level	-In PBS generally operators are asked to sew as much pieces as they can without considering back and front operators. This resulted piling up of work in the operations with higher work content.	-Less WIP in between operators. As workstation has limit of holding no. of hangers. Also after completion of operation hangers are transported to the next operation automatically.
Cutting work requirement	-As a result of High Work In Process (WIP) is required by sewing section, cutting sections are required to perform 60-70% more than actual production can handle.	-Lower WIP results in less cutting works. A balanced flow of material established in between cutting and sewing line.
Inventory Level	-Due high WIP and higher cutting, fabrics and trims need to stock in advance	-Less inventory for fabric and trims.
Excess labour requirement	- Usually in PBS needs more overtime works, repair work due to some unfinished operations.	-Plant with UPS system needs less overtime as planning is easy in this manufacturing system.

"Calculation of Fabric Utilization % in Cutting room"

Calculation of Fabric Utilization % in Cutting room

Apparel Manufacturing n Marketing

Fabric utilization:-

It means how much fabric is being utilized in cutting for garment patterns out of total fabric laid for cutting. Generally, fabric constitutes 60% to 70% of the total garment cost. So, through effective fabric utilization factory can save lot of money from fabric.

Calculation of Fabric utilization:-
Step 1: Measure the lay length (A) that should be used in bulk cutting. And suppose fabric width is 1.2 meters. Collect the information of fabric GSM (Grams per square meter).

Step 2: Calculate weight of that lay (B).
Weight = Fabric width X Lay Length X GSM X No. of plies (You can also calculate taking multiple lays) or 1.2A*GSM * no. of plies

Step 3: Cut the patterns and collect all waste fabric and weigh waste. (C)

Step 4: Weight of the fabric of cut panels D = (B-C)

Step 5: Fabric utilization% = Weight of cut panels (D)/Total weight of the lay (B)*100%

For the accuracy you can do this exercise with multiple lays and take average of them.

Example: For better understanding following will be very helpful-
Step 1: Assume that
a) Measured lay length = 3 meters
b) Fabric GSM = 150
c) No. of Plies = 5 and
d) Fabric width = 1.2 meters,

Step 2: Calculated weight of the lay = 3*150*5*1.2 =2700 grams

Step 3: Weight of the collected waste after cutting = 300 grams

Step 4: Weight of the cut panels = (2700 – 300) = 2400 grams

Step 5: Fabric utilization percentage = (2400/2700*100) = 88.9%.

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"Cutting Room - Terminology"

Cutting Room - Terminology

Apparel Manufacturing n Marketing

 

Common Terminology	Definition
Band knife	An endless blade vertical knife, around which the work is moved over the large cutting table.
Bias Cut	‘Cut on the Bias’ – cut at an angle to both the warp and the weft of the cloth, at 45 degree.
Baker’s Trolley	A wheeled rack used to transport sections of the lay from the cutting table to the band knife and from the band knife to the sorting operations.
Block Cutting or Blocking out	Cutting roughly around a part which is subsequently cut very precisely, by various means. Also for splitting the lay, to assist handling to the band knife.
Bowing	A fault in woven cloth in which the weft is not straight across the piece but has curve.
Clicker Press	Used for parts of intricate nature and repetitive, also for parts requiring a high degree of accuracy.
Cross	‘Cut on the crosses – Cut at right angles to the grain of the cloth (On bias).
Damage	A fabric fault. It may be generated during handling fabric inside factory or faulty fabric sent the fabric supplier.
Die cutting	Used where accuracy is important and there is enough repetition.
End loss	The cloth at the end of the lay that is not covered by the marker.
Face one way spreading	The face side of each ply faces the same way (up or down).
Face to face spreading	Method of spreading in which the cloth is alternately facing up or down, as a result of continuous to and fro movement of the roll over the lay.
Face to face one way spreading	Used for directional fabric where the pile (direction) is required to lie in the same direction on all the plies.
Layout (pattern layout)	The geometrical layout of the pattern pieces in a garment, which is cut around to produce the parts of the garment.
Marker	a). A man who prepares the pattern layout and/or who marks the layout onto the lay or onto a paper or a cloth. b). A piece of paper, cloth etc. representing the layout.
Notch	A small cut into the part, which aids the location during assembly by indicating to the operator some requirement for matching with other notches or positions in the garment.
On the fold	Method of finishing the cloth so that it is folded to half its width
Shading	Means colour in cloth. It is commonly used to imply that a particular bit/roll of cloth is different in shade from another bit.
Shade Numbering	Process of numbering parts to ensure they are of same shade.
Slubs	A local thick place in the yarn in a cloth usually caused by error but in some cloths it is introduced purposely.

  

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